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New Exhibit This Year (2008) |
Silk taffeta dress c. 1865 The flat front & back fullness is typical of the late crinoline period. It was worn over a steel spring hooped cage crinoline. This dress belonged to Amelia Locke of Saxtons River village. Skirt, bodice & cape 1880s Afternoon dress of silk grosgrain weave. The donor Lura Phelps Park of Grafton said her dress was "made in Chicago in 1882 and has about 800 silk balls as trimming": the date may be a little early for the exaggerated bustle and the puffed sleeves which anticipate the huge sleeves of the 90s. The skirt still has the tapes inside which would have held the bustle pad in place. Skirt, jacket & blouse c.1900 As women became more active outside the home a more utilitarian outfit was required, hence the woman's tailored "suit" and easily washable, often ready-made blouse. But functionality did not equate with comfort: tight corseting was still needed for the "S" silhouette, long flounced petticoats for the flare of the skirt & the high boned collar remained in style. The worsted wool skirt has an interesting clipped edging (for cleanliness?) The faille jacket was worn by a member of the Patch family of Newfane; the blouse by Lillian Gordon of Williamsville. Satin evening dress with chiffon sleeves & trim 1910s With the new straighter silhouette clothes finally become easier to wear. Bodices were no longer fitted with metal stays and the looser waist and natural shape of the skirt allowed for less cumbersome underclothes. The lack of layers of petticoats meant the previous open crotch pantaloons were replaced by closed knee-length drawers or buttoned combinations. This dress belonged to Miss Plumb of Townshend. |
The Changing Shape of Women's Clothes: Civil War - First World War |
(described from left to right) |